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North

Northern Israel covers the Galilee hills, the Hula bird-migration corridor, Mount Carmel, the Golan Heights, and the slopes of Mount Hermon. The posts here include hiking days (the Zavitan Stream, Nachal Amud) alongside the region’s settlement history and older sites: Crusader fortresses, Roman ruins, biblical narrative places.

31 articles

31 articles
Bottles of Akko gin and Galilee eau de vie lined up on a wooden tasting table
North · Galilee

The Western Galilee: behind every dish there’s a story

The fourth day of Israel’s culinary tourism course was the long one, north to the Western Galilee. A social-enterprise kitchen, a widow’s olives in a Crusader village, a logistics manager turned baker, the country’s first boutique distillery and a hummus place named for a father who never saw it open.

A tour group seated around a table eating lunch at the Marag cafe in Kfar Vradim An overhead view of bowls of home-cured black and green olives and a plate of labneh on Madeleine's table A golden-brown baked loaf dusted with sesame seeds cooling on a steel surface Copper and steel distilling equipment inside a converted factory building A metal bowl of warm chickpeas topped with fresh coriander at Hummus el Abed Abu Hamid in Old Akko A pastry maker spreading knafeh filling and demonstrating to a visiting group
A glass of red wine beside squares of Valrhona dark chocolate on a marble tasting bar
North · Carmel

Zichron Ya’akov: wine, beer and a long lunch

Day three of Israel’s culinary tourism course was billed as a wine day around Zichron Ya’akov. What I remember is a scorned grape, a brisket queue, a bar mitzvah spent in a brewery and a horse farm that turned into a restaurant.

Rows of dark sourdough loaves cooling on wire racks at the Tishbi bakery Barak Dahan speaking to a visiting group in the yard outside the Somek winery production building Bottles of Dictator Israeli craft beer lined up along a bar An overhead view of a large platter of spiced rice topped with slow-cooked lamb
Hiking up the Ein Tina stream in the Golan Heights with the assistance of some helpful hand railings
North · Galilee

Going off the beaten path in northern Israel

A two-day road trip through the Galilee Panhandle and the Golan Heights: the Hunin Crusader fortress, a sealed Hezbollah tunnel near the Lebanon border, the Roman temples at Hurvat Omrit, the Hexagon Pool, and a Yom Kippur War memorial at Tel Saki.

A spelt snack at the Pitputim Bakery in Rosh Pina Clambering through the Yiftach Crevices in Israel's Upper Galilee with the help of iron handholds The Hunin Crusader Fortress Memorial to the South Lebanon Army on the Israel/Lebanon border The blocked-up entrance to a tunnel that Hizbollah dug under the Israel-Lebanon border (the border is in the background) with the objective of conducting terror attacks within Israel. A stream flows through Hurshat Tal National Park in the Hula Valley Ruins of three Roman temples at Hurvat Omrit in the Golan Heights A sizzling steak at HaBokrim restaurant in Merom Golan Nachal Meshusim (the Hexagon stream) flows through the Golan Heights Remarkable geological formations at the Hexagon Pool in the Golan Heights Hiking up the Ein Tina stream in the Golan Heights with the assistance of some helpful hand railings The memorial at Tel Saki in the Golan Heights to Israeli soldiers who fell in the Yom Kippur War De Karina chocolatier in Ein Zivan, the Golan Heights
Relaxing at the Shokek Spring in the Park of Springs in northern Israel
North

Cooling off in the Valley of Springs

A day relaxing in the springs of the Beit She'an Valley in northern Israel: the Park of Springs, the Harod Spring at Maayan Harod National Park, and a pelican migration in the fish pools.

Relaxing at the Shokek Spring in the Park of Springs in northern Israel A delicious takeaway breakfast picnic from the Jacobs Dairy and Agadat HaLechem bakery. Migrating pelicans in the fish pools located in the Park of Springs in Northern Israel Some of the Treats on Offer at the Maklot Vanille Cafe in Afula, Israel Browsing the Carmelim farm shop in Northern Israel
View looking out westwards from Mt Hermon
North · Golan Heights & Hermon

Hiking to the top of Israel: Mt Hermon

Hiking the 2,040m peak of Mt Hermon on Israel's northern border in the middle of summer: the heat, the army permission, the views from above the clouds, and the berry picking on the way home.

View looking out westwards from Mt Hermon View from the peak of the Hermon Mountain Looking out over the border between Israel and Syria in the Golan Heights from Mt Hermon. The symbolic beginning of the Israel Trail Blackberry picking the Bereishit orchard in the Golan Heights. A chocolate milkshake in the De Karina chocolate factory in Ein Zivan.
Sunset over the Hula and its cranes
North · Galilee

Nachal Amud and Migration in the Hula

A perfect autumn hike down through Nachal Meiron and Nachal Amud, followed by a drive across the Galilee to the ancient synagogue at Bar'am and the migrating cranes at the Agamon.

British police station Nachal Amud Hanging out with Shimon Shiffer Bar'am Synagogue Migrating cranes at the Agamon Sunset over the Hula and its cranes
Bathing in the Zavitan Hexagon Pools
North · Golan Heights & Hermon

Hiking the Zavitan Stream

A short hike on the upper Zavitan stream in the Yehudiya Nature Reserve, with basalt-column pools, a waterfall and plenty of opportunity to cool off in the Golan heat.

Small creek near Nachal Zavitan Bathing in the Zavitan Hexagon Pools Undisturbed pool along the Zavitan Stream Zavitan Waterfall
Mifgash Golani, Afula
North

Flying falafel at Mifgash Golani

Mifgash Golani in Afula is famous for its falafel, but really for the falafel acrobatics performed by the staff. Quite remarkable, and well worth a stop on the way north.

Kinneret Courtyard
North · Galilee

Settlement of the Jordan Valley

A day through the Jordan Valley and the southern Sea of Galilee: the Harod Spring, the Roman bridge and hydroelectric ruins at Old Gesher and Naharayim, the Kinneret Courtyard and Rachel the Poet, Degania, the Motor House and the Kinneret Cemetery.

The Harod Spring Roman / Mamluk bridge over the Jordan at Old Gesher (currently under restoration) Kinneret Courtyard The first building at Umm Juni The Motor House of Kinneret Grave of Naomi Shemer in the Kinneret Cemetery
Inside the Josef Caro Synagogue
North · Galilee

Safed / Tzefat

A return to Tzefat, where I spent three months on my gap year, this time as a guiding student. Akhbara, Mt Canaan, the kabbalists' synagogues of the Old City and a sunset over the Crusader citadel.

View from Akhbara Lookout View over Tzefat and Mt Meiron from Mt Canaan Inside the Ashkenazi Synagogue of the Ari Ruins of a 16th century communal building in Tzefat Inside the Josef Caro Synagogue Mamluk and Crusader ruins in the Tzefat Citadel
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